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JAPANESE NOODLES - HOW TO COOK AND 3 DIPPING SAUCES
  
 
STUFFED WITH HERBED KASHA
  
     
 
To cook somen and soba noodles successfully, you must watch them carefully and test frequently. This is necessary because soba and somen are made from flour, which is softer and finer than durum semolina used in making Italian pasta. As a result, it's easily possible for the surface of soba and somen to get mush by the time the heat reaches their center, particularly if they are simply boiled in the same way as Italian pasta. Sashimizu helps avoid this problem.
 
 
       
With sashimizu, each time the pot boils, you pour in a cup of cold water, repeating this procedure until the noodles are done. By lowering the temperature of the cooking water, this technique allows time for the noodles to cook through evenly. It only takes a few minutes longer to cook than by the usual method.
 
In a large pot, boil 3-4 quarts of water. Be sure there is still enough room for the 1-3 cups water to be added while cooking. Do not salt the water. Gradually scatter noodles into the pot. If too long to throw in, hold the noodles in the hot water until the submerged part softens, then swirl the pasta into pot. Stir slowly to prevent sticking.
 
When water returns to boil, add 1 cup cold water. Repeat process one to three times, depending on the thickness of the noodles being cooked. Meanwhile, test noodles constantly for doneness by biting into a single strand. Noodles should be firm, yet tender. Drain well. Immediately rinse in cold running water until surface starch has washed away. This is very important to keep noodles from sticking together. Drain.
       
If, after rinsing, snowy white somen and beige nutty-flavored buckwheat soba can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for a day or more before they are dished up.
Cold buckwheat noodles can be served on a glass plate with a bowl of cold, savory-sweet, soy based dipping sauce served on the side. Another way to serve this dish is to put the noodles in a clear glass bowl and ladle over the dipping sauce.
       
Iced thin wheat noodles (somen) with dipping sauce are perfect for days when you feel as if nothing less than munching on ice cubes will cool you off. To enjoy this angel hair-thin pasta, lift a mouthful of the somen from their icy bath, using chopsticks or twirling the noodles around a fork, and swoosh them in the flavorful dipping sauce.
       
Dashi (Japanese broth), an ingredient used in the dipping sauce, can be made ahead and frozen until you are ready to use. Any extra sauce will keep several weeks in the refrigerator. Use it to season cooked vegetables and stir-fries, fish and chicken. Traditionally, dashi requires dried kombu, a sea vegetable, and shaved bonito flakes, which are found only in Japanese food stores. But the vegetarian version below uses ingredients found in most supermarkets. Besides being served as an ingredient, dashi can be heated and served a clear soup, with cubes of tofu, thinly sliced carrots and chopped scallions. These recipes below are adapted from "At Home with Japanese Cooking" by Elizabeth Andoh.
       
DIPPING SAUCES
Dipping Sauce:
1 ½ cups dashi (recipe below) 3 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
1 ½ tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon sweetened rice wine, sake or sherry
Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan. Heat through, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Chill well. Makes 1 ¾ cups.
DASHI (Basic Japanese Broth)
5 dried shiitake mushrooms green top from one leek
1 medium onion coarsely chopped 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled cut in 4 or 5 slices
1 small parsnip, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon Japanese soy sauce
1 clove garlic, peeled
In a medium saucepan, soak the shiitake in 1-cup water until the mushrooms are soft, 20 to 30 minutes. To mushrooms, and their soaking water add leek green, onion, ginger, parsnip, garlic and 5 cups water. Over high heat, bring to a boil; reduce heat; simmer for 30 minutes.
Strain, pressing in the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard solids; return liquid to pot. Over medium-high heat, cook until liquid is reduced to 4 cups. Add soy sauce. Makes 1-¾ cups.
       
ZARU SOBA (COLD BUCKWHEAT NOODLES WITH DIPPING SAUCE)
12 ounces dried soba noodles ¼ cup chopped scallions
½ sheet nori (dried seaweed, optional) 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1 recipe Dashi dipping sauce 2 teaspoons wasabi (Japanese horseradish) or sharp mustard
Prepare the soba using sashimizu method. Drain, rinse very well, and drain thoroughly. Divide the noodles among four small plates or bowls. If using nori, hold sheet over direct heat until crisped, 1 minute or so. Fold it several times and crumble it in a clean, dry towel. Sprinkle some of the crumbled nori over each mound of noodles. Divide chilled dipping sauce among four induvidual cups. Serve along with the noodles. Serve the scallions, grated ginger and wasabi or mustard on a serving dish or in three separate small dishes, to add to your dipping sauce at the table. Makes 4 servings. Note: if nori is unavailable, substitute 4 teaspoons sesame seeds, lightly toasted, in a heavy, dry skillet until they smell aromatic, about 4 minutes.
HIYASHI SOMEN (Iced Thin Wheat Noodles with Dipping Sauce)
4 ounces dried somen ½ small cucumber, unpeeled, sliced very thin
1 recipe Dashi ½ cup canned mandarin sections, drained
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
¼ cup finely chopped fresh mint or coriander or combination of both
Put a few ice cubes in a large bowl of cold water. Prepare somen, using sashimizu method. Drain, rinse very well, and drain thoroughly. Add noodles to bowl of iced water to chill 2-3 minutes. While noodles are chilling, divide dipping sauce among four bowls and garnish with the ginger and chopped mint.
Put a few ice cubes in each of four deep glass bowls. Add cold water to fill bowls 1/3 full. Drain cooked somen and divide among the bowls. Float equal amounts of the sliced cucumber and orange sections on top. Serve immediately, accompanied by the chilled dipping sauce. Makes 4 servings
Note: if somen is unavailable, substitute vermicelli pasta.
Recipes adapted from: "At Home with Japanese Cooking" by Elizabeth Andoh
       
Cold Soba Noodles
(Zaru Soba)
2 cups cold water ¾ pound dried soba noodles
1 4 inch-square piece konbu (dried kelp) 6 tablespoons finely chopped scallions (green part only)
½ cup dried bonito flakes 2 tablespoons wasabi mixed with 3 ½ tablespoons water to form a paste.
½ cup soy sauce 3 tablespoons mirin (sweetened rice wine)
1. To prepare the dashi, or stock: Place the cold water in a saucepan. Using a damp cloth, wipe the kombu, removing any dirt. Place to kombu in the cold water and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Remove the kombu immediately and reserve for another use. Bring the water again to a boil, and remove from the heat. Add the bonito flakes and stir, and then let them settle to the bottom of the pan, about 1 minute. Strain the liquid through a fine -meshed strainer lined with cheesecloth. Discard the bonito flakes.
   
2. To make the dipping sauce: combine 2 cups of the dashi with the soy sauce and mirin in a bowl, chill. (For serving, you may divide it into six portions and chill.)
   
3. To cook the noodles: bring 3 quarts of water to boil in a large pot. Add the noodles, scattering them over the surface. Once the water reaches a boil, cook for 5 to 6 minutes, or until just tender. Put the noodles in a colander, and rinse under cold running water to remove the starch. Drain thoroughly, and divide among 5 baskets or bowls.
   
4. Place the scallions and wasabi in the center of the table with the noodles. Each diner then mixes a dab of the wasabi and 1 tablespoon of the scallions in a portion of dipping sauce and, using chopsticks, dips noodles into the sauce. Yield 6 servings.
Approximate nutritional analysis per serving: 205 calories, 1 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1,135 mg sodium, 9 g protein, 45 g carbohydrate.
       
SPICY - PESTO SOBA
Spicy pesto:
1 fresh hot chili pepper or 1 tsp. dried red-pepper flakes
4 cloves garlic
½ cup fresh basil leaves, rinsed and drained, with stems trimmed
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, rinsed and drained, with stems trimmed
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
Dressing:
6 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup clear rice vinegar 1 tablespoon mirin, rice wine or sake
The noodles:
½ lb snow peas, ends snapped and veiny strings removed, sliced in half
lengthwise.
¾ lb. soba noodles
1 lb. cooked chicken breast meat, cut or shredded into julienne strips
1 cup minced scallion greens
   
In a food processor fitted with a steel blade or in a blender, chop the pesto ingredients, in the order above, into a paste. Remove and set aside.
Combine the dressing ingredients, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
       
Heat 3 quarts of water until boiling. Add the snow peas and cook for about 1 minute, until crisp-tender. Remove with a handled strainer or a colander and refresh in cold water. Drain thoroughly and blot dry on paper towels. Reheat the water, scatter the soba noodles over the surface, and once the water reaches a boil, cook for 5 - 6 minutes, until just tender. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse under cold water to remove the starch. Drain again and transfer to a bowl. Add the spicy pesto and toss thoroughly. Put the noodles on a serving platter and arrange the snow peas, chicken, and scallions in separate concentric circles on top of the noodles. Sprinkle the dressing on top, toss lightly and serve. Serves 6.
       
Nina Simonds - "In Japan, many soba houses make a number of flavored sobas seasoned with lemon zest (yellow), sesame seeds (black), and green tea or parsley (green)", Simonds says. "I like to make a simplified version, tossing just-cooked soba with a fresh herb pesto made with chopped garlic, fresh basil and mint, a fresh chili pepper and toasted sesame oil. Cooked chicken and snow peas garnish the top with a subtle rice vinegar dressing. The dish is light, fresh and delicious."

BUCKWHEAT PASTA WITH CABBAGE AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Pasta with a Germanic slant; this is good for a winter's evening. Be sure to use a small head of Savoy cabbage for this; regular cabbage is too strong, but Napa could be substituted.
3 tablespoons olive oil 2 minced garlic cloves
¼ lb prosciutto or Black Forest ham, minced ½ lb Brussels sprouts, the leaves separated, discard cores
¼ cup water salt
1 small head Savoy cabbage ¼ c chicken or vegetable bouillon
1 lb buckwheat (Soba) noodles 1 tablespoon butter
¼ to 1/3 cup grated hard Dutch goat Cheddar, or Emmenthal cheese 4 scallions, sliced thin, some green included
3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 tablespoon black caraway seeds
freshly ground black pepper
 
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil, add garlic, the prosciutto and the Brussels sprout leaves, and stir over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add half the water and a sprinkle of salt and cook about 4 minutes until tender. Add the cabbage and bouillon and cook until cabbage is wilted, adding more water if needed. The vegetables should be moist but not swimming in liquid.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to boil. Add the noodles and cook until soba is al dente and drain and place in a large heated serving bowl. Add the vegetables and remaining olive oil and butter to the noodles and toss, then add cheese, scallions and parsley. Toss again and sprinkle with caraway seeds and salt and pepper to taste, then serve. Serves 4-6.